Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada
16 miles
5/17/2019

Well, it looks as if the rain from the predicted coastal storm is going to happen today. That and the cold, windy weather is limiting the photography on this segment.

We always seem to begin each stage with a sharp climb and this is no exception at 3445 feet. Again there are spectacular views as we move from Asturias into Galicia, the land of the Celts. While walking along the highway, I reconnect with Melissa (Sydney, Australia). To keep each other's spirit up despite the dreary weather, we continue an earlier conversation we were having another day about all aspects of Australia, the U.S. and life in general for almost 9 miles. We finally had enough cover to snap a quick photo of this very cool stone church in La Mesa.

We both grow weary of the rain, the mud and the wind. I almost lost my right boot in the muck, which would have been tragic, especially considering the fact that a local farmer was headed to this small herd of huge Guernsey cows we'd just passed to bring them back our way. Being trampled and dragged through the mud was not the way I wanted to start my day. Needless to say, we picked up our pace considerably.

As we were nearing the ridge we were wondering what the loud, rhythmic noise was that we were hearing. Turns out we were right below the windmills we heard from afar...

https://youtu.be/ZBjmMOua76s

I took a very short movie more for the sound than anything else and told Melissa to go ahead while I took care of a private matter. I thought I picked a good spot, but Eric popped up unexpectedly and got to know me better than he probably planned.

Melissa and I caught up when we finally found a bar/cafeteria where we could get a coffee. After we sat down we decided that a beef stew, hunks of bread and red wine were needed to improve the day. So we asked the owner if he would call the Camino taxi for us so we could ride the last 6 miles to my hotel and make our dream come true. (Yes my friends, that Camino taxi is a very real thing. And trust me, they have been extremely busy these last 2 yucky days). By the way, that beef stew was excellent and we polished off that bottle of wine.

My 2 new French peeps join Norberto (Portugal) 

for a coffee to warm them up in the bar/cafe.

Before we have dinner later, other friends continue to resurface and try to defrost - mostly with the local red wine (tinto) - which for some reason Spaniards refrigerate and serve cold. I'm not complaining because our included 3-course dinners come with free local wine. This special friend, Alvora, was the first person I met when I made the first of so many wrong turns trying to get out of Oviedo and onto the Camino. I could not believe he remembered me all that time. He has done multiple Caminos and works in the tourism industry and is like a rock star in the hotels and restaurant. He always makes a special effort to make sure I am taken care of.